There are a few privately run guesthouses, but they are not cheap. Apparently they are using the fact that you have no choice.
Just next to the bazaar there is Tamaras Guesthouse B&B, in front of which there is a small shop run by Kyrgyz family. Tamara and her daughter Alia speak fluent English. Tamara was a teacher of Russian language and literature, her husband Akbar was journalist. Interesting and resourceful people to speak with. Tamara is able to organize horse tours with guide and old horses for inexperienced riders if needed. B&B costs 500 soms September 2009. Do not accept the offer to eat in her place instead of kafe which is 50 meters away. Tamara charges 200 som for lagman with bread and tea, while in kafe you would pay 70 only.
Close to the entrance of the village, on the left side, there is guesthouse run by a Russian. She does not negotiate and does not go lower than 600 per person. It's further from centre.
